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Now, I don’t know what Citizen watches contracted during the pandemic, but I want some. They went in looking like this...and came out looking like this. With that kind of glow-up, it would give Brad Pitt a run for his money!

Founded in 1918, Citizen has always been at the forefront of wristwatch technology, with numerous innovations to their name, and until recently, I think that’s mainly what they were known for. High-performance watches with cool features at a good price. But in recent years, they’ve been releasing more and more watches that excel in the visual department, too, and that’s when they really piqued my interest.

Previously, Citizen’s cluttered design language and near-universally large sizing never really spoke to me, but this post-pandemic resurgence has completely changed the game. Nowadays, they offer a much wider assortment of sizes and styles, meaning there’s finally something in there for virtually every wrist size and taste.

Crucially, many of these new additions are in the lower price brackets, which I think is far more exciting than the high-end luxury stuff I’d need to sell an organ for. These are watches you and I can actually afford. So, I figured it was finally time for me to make a list of the best Citizen watches under $500.

Over the last few months, I’ve spent countless hours and thousands of pounds exploring the Citizen catalog, narrowing it down to 20 special picks that I think cover all bases for us budget-conscious buyers.

And you know what, I think this could be my best yet. It turns out, in addition to the more popular models, I’ve found many surprisingly good hidden gems you’ve probably never heard of, so stay tuned so you don’t miss ‘em. Unlike most other posts on this topic, I’ve actually had hands-on experience with all of these, too, so I can share with you some honest pros and cons for each along the way.

Now, I’ve split this article into sections for easy browsing. No JDM watches in this one, I’ll save those for a separate list.

The obvious place to start is sports watches.

Tsuyosa

Citizen really kicked off this revitalization with the integrated bracelet Tsuyosa. Boasting a Rolex-like appearance at an even lower price than the Tissot PRX, this model was always going to prove popular, and the sheer number of colors this one now ships in is a testament to how successful it must have been.

For around £300 or often much less on grey market sites, the Tsuyosa offers decent build quality and a trendy appearance for a reasonable price; a pretty tempting combination. Unlike most fashion-forward watches, this doesn’t feel at all cheap in the hands. It’s actually got quite a weighty, assuring feel, thanks to the substantial steel case and automatic movement, combined with the steel bracelet, which itself offers a reasonable range of adjustment holes to give you a comfortable fit. Just keep in mind that these integrated bracelets do limit future strap options. While far from the most original dial, it’s a pretty versatile design, and some of the punchier colors, like this bright yellow, have a lovely sheen that elevates the look even further. Overall, the Tsuyosa gives a fantastic first impression.

Unlike similarly priced watches from brands like Seiko, it also offers a sapphire crystal, which gives you the optimal level of scratch resistance, though it’s far from perfect. The sapphire Citizen is using here introduces a lot of haziness, which is much more apparent in dimmer models like this green one, where the reduced clarity and contrast are on full display; this green doesn’t look nearly as vibrant as the stock images. For this reason, I’d stick to the brighter models, which effectively sidestep this issue and look much more like the photos.

Funnily enough, the green model is actually a different-sized version of the Tsuyosa, which was recently added to the lineup. The standard version is 40mm wide, while this new one is only 37mm, meaning it’s better for small wrists. At the time of publishing, the latter is only available in three colors, while the former has a much more diverse selection. Either way, it’s great to see alternative sizes being introduced to fit more arms.

Both versions are still fairly chunky, which is partly due to the movement powering them. This is the Miyota 8210; an entry-level automatic that is known to be quite thick.

Despite its popularity, I’m not the biggest fan of the regular Tsuyosa, partly due to the unsightly cyclops placed atop the crystal and the awkwardly positioned dial text, which I think sits too close to the markers. The rotor noise from this Miyota can also be annoying at times.

Tsuyosa Small Seconds

That’s why I prefer this version instead, the Tsuyosa Small Seconds. This model fixes all those issues for a comparable price and looks more premium in the process, thanks to its elaborate Guilloche dial pattern, which adds an extra layer of texture and depth. The rearranged text is better positioned, the dial is super symmetrical, thanks to the absence of a date window, and even the movement has been switched for something less anemic. In here is a Miyota 8322a, which is similar to the previous Miyota 8210 but boasts a longer 60-hour power reserve and a far quieter hollowed-out rotor, in addition to enhanced decoration, which you can view through the exhibition rear.

While it still shares the same unimpressive case as the regular Tsuyosa, the bracelet is quite different. Here, you have a milled butterfly clasp, as opposed to the stamped metal clasp on the previous model. It’s not quite as adjustable, but suits the look better and at least offers some shrunken links, to compensate for the lack of micro-adjustment holes.

It also feels higher quality, which I guess echoes the entire theme of the Small Seconds Tsuyosa. To me, it’s just a more refined and more luxurious Tsuyosa, for a little extra cash. For the most part, it’s objectively better and looks much more expensive, with my only nitpicks being that the recessed crown isn’t quite as flush as that on the regular Tsuyosa, and the design is perhaps a touch less versatile.

At present, it’s also only available in a limited color selection, but all three are absolute bangers. If this ever releases in 37mm, it’ll probably be glued to my wrist. All versions of the Tsuyosa share the same 5ATM water resistance rating, but if it’s aquatic performance you’re after, you’ll find more success with options later on this list.

Citizen Forza/Zenshin

While I prefer the Small Seconds Tsuyosa, lots of people seem to favor the ‘Zenshin’ integrated bracelet watches instead. These are a range of titanium-cased watches that initially launched under the ‘Forza’ moniker here in the UK. There are three main models to pick from, including a Miyota-powered automatic, an Eco-drive solar three-hander, and even a solar chronograph for those of you wanting something more substantial.

The appeal of these Zenshin watches is clear to see. Loads of YouTubers were calling these ‘Grand Seiko Killers,’ primarily due to the highly textured dials, which are pretty impressive from a distance. They almost have this Washi paper-style look, which is typically only found on much more expensive watches. Additionally, the Zenshin is pretty thin compared to the Tsuyosa, all while offering double the water resistance.

The cherry on top, as far as reviewers were concerned, was the Super Titanium construction. You get the lightness of titanium, combined with Citizen’s case hardening treatment, which supposedly offers 5x the hardness and scratch resistance of stainless steel with 40% less weight.

Almost every reviewer was echoing these claims without conducting any meaningful testing, but I did the testing. Sadly, I discovered that most Super Titanium watches, even Duratect branded ones, actually perform marginally worse than stainless steel as far as scratches go. Essentially, Citizen’s marketing of this is highly misleading. There are several secret tiers of this stuff, which they don’t differentiate between on any Western site. Most Super Titanium models scratch and perform akin to completely untreated titanium watches and lack any enhanced scratch resistance.

That’s not to say titanium is necessarily bad. Watches made using this are still very light and comfortable; these Zenshin watches basically disappear on the wrist. Just don’t expect anything more than that. Citizen really needs to sort out its messaging.

Out of these three, I like the three-hander the best. It’s the lowest cost, most compact, and has the cleanest overall look. You’d never know it was solar either, given the level of detail on offer. I love this green tone, too. It’s definitely my pick of the bunch. All versions ship with a titanium bracelet, which keeps the balance in check, though the clasp isn’t as good as some others on this list. At full price, these range from £400 to £500, but I’ve already seen these retailing for considerably less on sites like Amazon. If you manage to somehow grab one for under £300, they’re a very good buy. Still, I lean more toward the Tsuyosa Small Seconds, which I think is prettier overall.

Citizen Odyn

If you’re on a tighter budget, Citizen actually has some surprisingly viable lower-cost options. The first of these is the little-known ‘Odyn’. This model recently released in select territories, and for closer to £200, often below that on grey market sites, it looks absolutely baller. It’s a solar-powered sports watch, reminiscent of the AP Royal Oak, with a steel case, octagonal bezel, and even a shiny waffle-like dial, giving a comparable overall look for a fraction of the price.

That’s not to say it’s a direct copy. Unlike the AP, or most other AP clones for that matter, this has a standard 22mm bracelet fitting, so you can change the strap, as well as an engraved bezel and a dial surface that’s somewhat of an illusion. In fact, Citizen has pulled some subtle tricks here that help elevate the Odyn’s appearance.

The smartest of which is the slim chamfer running around the inside of the bezel, right next to where the crystal sits. I’ve rarely, if ever, seen this approach before, and I didn’t even notice it at first; I was just trying to work out why I liked the bezel so much, and then I finally saw it. It’s tilted inwards, the opposite way from the norm, providing inverted reflections compared versus the rest of the watch. This also helps frame the dial and works nicely in tandem with the circular engravings beneath. No, that wasn’t a slip of the tongue. It’s got a square pattern, sure, but that’s actually a 2D print combined with radial rings that fan out from the center. You can only see these if you look really closely. This arrangement is most likely to do with the Eco-Drive solar technology, where it takes light in through the dial, but the final effect gives the type of striking, clean sheen that you only tend to get with solar watches. It’s a side effect that’s actually quite welcome. Under some artificial lights, you even get a little bit of that oil-like iridescence shining through, which is also pretty cool.

I think this watch actually has a better case shape than both the previous watches, despite costing notably less; it’s fairly slim for a bezeled design, and the angular lugs taper down and hug the arm nicely, with no obvious gaps.

The only notable drawbacks are the crystal and bracelet. The former is only mineral, which is below-par for the price. I’m still not a fan of these heritage brands gating off sapphire for use solely in their more expensive watches, especially when it costs just a fraction more to implement. It’s not like this is a fifty-quid watch or something! It does at least avoid the cloudiness present on the previous two on this list, with a far clearer look at the dial beneath. The bracelet, meanwhile, is only comprised of folded links, which isn’t nearly as good as what you can get from some of the Chinese brands. The adjustment range is respectable though.

The standard Odyn measures 41mm across, with a 48mm lug-to-lug and a 9.8mm thickness, meaning it’s also best suited to average or larger wrists, especially with the relatively wide bracelet.

Citizen Metropolitan

Luckily, I also stumbled upon what is effectively a smaller version of this watch. This one seems to go by the name ‘Metropolitan’, and it comes in at 38mm, with a mere 45mm lug to lug. Admittedly, it’s not quite as impressive as the Odyn; the dial foregoes the gridline pattern, and overall, it has more simplistic detailing. Still, it retains the strong sunburst and all the other specs, often for substantially less cash, so it’s a strong budget choice nonetheless.

I think the Odyn is still the real fashion watch killer of the two. It has some fun and flashiness to it, whilst still looking way more premium than 99% of designer watches you see in jewelry stores. If you’re considering buying a sporty Armani, Michael Kors, or Hugo Boss watch, just buy this instead. You won’t regret it. The quality difference is pretty stark.

Citizen Axiom

Alternatively, if you want to head further down the minimalist rabbit hole, the futuristic Axiom may be more to your taste. I’ve featured this one before on Ben’s Watch Club and can’t help but share it again, given it looks nothing like a typical Citizen. This one has an extreme space-age design, with a case shape and bracelet that fit together seamlessly and a wafer-thin profile that wears extremely flush to the wrist. Surprisingly, this isn’t the thinnest watch on this list...wait till you see that one! It’s got a stunning bright blue dial that is a real attention-grabber, with a punchier tone than most blue watches out there, which tend to lean towards navy. One thing to note is that in my footage, you can see right through to the movement beneath, as if it’s translucent. In reality, this effect is just a side effect of one of my lens filters; to the naked eye, it appears solid.

Overall, it’s a quirky, yet attractive watch that’s perfect for you Star Wars lovers out there. In fact, Citizen has since released a surprisingly good Hyperdrive version of the Axiom in partnership with Lucasfilm. That has to be one of the best-executed collabs I’ve seen to date. The Hyperdrive is pricier, at around £300, whereas the standard Axiom can usually be had for much closer to £200, which I think is fairer for a watch that only has a mineral crystal. Both share the same 40mm width, which is quite misleading, as the thinness and short lug to lug do make it wear smaller. The clasp can also be problematic. The bracelet links are solid and small, but the adjustment range is limited to link-sized increments.

Still, this is a watch that has flown under the radar for a while now and it could be a very exclusive addition to your collection.

Dive Watches

Citizen NY0040

Something that will be a little less exclusive is Citizen’s legendary Promaster line of dive watches. These have a great history, a proven military track record, and come in all sorts of shapes and sizes to boot. The most abundant and lowest cost is the NY0040. At one point in time, these could be had for around £140, but that’s since ballooned somewhat to around £200, which makes it a little less tempting compared to others on this list.

Nonetheless, the NY0040 does have some notable strengths and a whole bunch of charm. The most notable of these is the case. I still refuse to believe this case is almost 42mm wide. I mean, that’s what my calipers are telling me, but the math doesn’t add up. It plops so nicely onto my skinny arm, you could have told me this were 38mm, and I’d have believed you! While the finishing is run-of-the-mill, it has a much more distinctive tub-like structure and a bezel that’s narrower than the main body, which surely contribute to this effect. Large wrist, small wrist, anything inbetween, you could probably pull this watch off. If you like the styling, that is.

Indeed, the NY0040 is very much a product of its time, with this navy version, in particular, looking straight out of the 1990s with a dated denim-like backdrop and coral accents. If you like the 90s, this may tickle your fancy, but if not, it may be worth steering toward some of the other colors instead. The black version is much better looking, and they used to do a fully lumed variant too, though that one appears to be discontinued.

With a decent strap, an ISO rated 200m of water resistance, a rock-solid bezel, and a Miyota 8204 automatic movement, this is one of the most reliable watches ever, according to numerous long-time owners in my review’s comments section.

If you can grab one for the right price, it’s still a viable choice that won’t let you down.

Citizen Promaster NY0120

For roughly the same cost, you can instead pick up this: the much newer NY0120. This is a modern interpretation of a 70’s Promaster design, with a traditionally placed 3-o’clock crown and a heavily textured gradient dial that’s available in a much wider variety of colors.

I think, for the most part, the NY0120 feels like a more premium watch than the NY0040. The dial looks substantially classier, with reduced wackiness and a surface that looks much closer to that on many higher-end dive watches. Admittedly, the whole layout here is more predictable and vanilla than the last one, but overall, I do think it’s more stylish and the lightly domed crystal also gives it some added flair.

Despite the visual overhaul, it still boasts the same ISO-rated water performance as the previous Promaster, as well as a no-nonsense bezel. The NY0120 can also be purchased with a nicely integrated, brushed bracelet that features a great clasp with a ratcheting divers extension. It also has some mini links, so finding the perfect fit won’t be a problem. I haven’t tried a bracelet version of the NY0040, but from what I can tell, this newer one is substantially better for the same price.

My main gripes with this newer Promaster are pretty easy to spot. Firstly, I think the handset is a little too short for this design. More importantly, the whole package feels chunkier than it probably should be. Despite being narrower than the previous one, it looks a whole lot bigger on wrist, partially due to the 13.9mm thickness. It uses the same movement; they should have kept it just as slim. The brushing used throughout is also quite boring for a watch at this price.

Still, it does feel very hardy, to an even greater degree than the last one, and I particularly enjoy the way the curved crystal plays with the light, even if it’s only mineral. It provides somewhat of a liquified look, as if the dial is the seabed and the glass is the water’s surface.

Promaster EcoZilla

While the NY0120 already fits larger wrists really well, if you’re prepared to take things to the extreme, you can obtain some equally extreme performance. Meet the Promaster BJ8050, also known as the EcoZilla. This solar-powered monstrosity is built about as well as the name suggests, with an enormous 48mm case and enough water resistance to star in a Captain Nemo movie. This is ISO-rated to 300m, but I imagine it could go further if you pushed it.

Sadly, I don’t have a great deal of footage of this one. I ended up selling it right before I planned this post, but the brief clips here tell you all you need to know. This thing is a complete tank that’s a guaranteed conversation starter.

Eco-Drive Promaster EO2021

Of course, there are some safer options out there too, including a string of other Eco-Drive Promasters. The most notable of these is the EO2021, which is a unisex 36.4mm Promaster that’s a great fit for small wrists. To be honest, I didn’t love this one when I first received it.

It’s not got the most inventive design out there and rather like the Tsuyosa, the lower text is a bit too low for my liking. The dial and case finishing are also nothing special compared to sub-$200 Chinese brands, but, I have to say, it’s remarkably refreshing to have a dive watch that actually fits my 6.25 inch wrist properly, especially paired with a design that isn’t directly ripped from a luxury watch.

Now, the solar Promaster also comes in a larger 44mm size, which is quite a discrepancy; surely they’ll release a mid-sized gap-filler in future. For now, this model offers a similar package to the NY0040, albeit with some modernized design tweaks and a solar movement. It’s maybe slightly better looking overall, partly thanks to the slightly darker dial tone.

The polyurethane strap, while comfortable, does limit this to strictly casual use, so it’s not quite as versatile as the likes of the NY0120. If you’re more into the larger model, it might also be worth considering the AW1598, which is a similar 43mm piece with a slimmer, sexier appearance at the cost of some water resistance.

Fujitsubo NB6021-17E

If you really fancy treating yourself, the Fujitsubo is the most obvious higher-end choice within this price bracket. Now, this one was pretty divisive at release. Many reviewers shilled this like the second coming of Christ, while others panned the rudimentary case design and what they deemed boring styling, all for a launch price approaching £700 or $800. I can see where both sides were coming from. Like some of the cheaper divers, the case here is still simplistic, with an entirely brushed finish throughout, and the dial also looks akin to many existing Citizen and Seiko dive models, with a high contrast color scheme, coin-edged bezel, and boxy markers.

It really does look like the stereotypical 70’s dive watch, and that’s because it basically is. The Fujitsubo is effectively a reissue of the 1977 Challenge dive watch, updated with modern materials and an improved movement. It’s primarily known as the Fujitsubo rather than the ‘Challenge’ diver, because it’s a nod to a very specific unit that reportedly washed up on an Australian beach in 1983, after several years in the Pacific Ocean. This watch was caked in barnacles but still functioned, hence the nickname ‘Barnacle,’ which translates to ‘Fujitsubo’ in Japanese - a marketer’s dream scenario if I’ve ever seen one! So, it’s not the most historically significant timepiece, but it’s admittedly quite a compelling story, and so Citizen has recreated it almost 1:1 in the looks department.

While not the most exciting, I do think this watch oozes class and timelessness. Partly, that’s due to some of the tweaks Citizen has made to this reissue.

Firstly, they’ve gone for an unusual faceted sapphire crystal that’s also domed underneath, which gives a far more impressive look than the standard domed glass used on the original. Additionally, the movement in this reissue is among the best on this list. It’s the Miyota 9051, a high-beat automatic with a 3.9mm thickness. This gives you a tasty combination of a smooth sweeping seconds hand and a slimmer profile than the other mechanical divers on this list.

What’s more, the dial also boasts a gorgeous glossy sheen to it, reminiscent of enamel (unsure if it’s actually enamel, they don’t mention it), but the final result really looks luxurious. Just like with PC monitors, you can’t get such a deep black on matte dials and this just looks head and shoulders above most other choices below £500. Indeed, these days, you can typically grab the Fujitsubo for several hundred less than it launched at, which makes many of the criticisms a complete non-issue.

One issue that does remain is the bezel. It looks good from atop, but its action is underwhelming for the price, which isn’t aided by the surprisingly low level of grip. Its polished presentation also sticks out compared to the all-matte case; the original version had polished flanks which suited the layout better. For a 70s diver, the original was wider than you might think, at 40mm. This new model is closer to 41mm, but wears just like a 40, with a 48.5mm lug to lug. You can also grab this one in blue, if you want a look that closer matches the original, which itself comes on a titanium bracelet. I’ve no idea how scratch-resistant this Super Titanium is compared to that on the Zenshin, I don’t have the budget to check, but it does have a much lighter steel-like tone, which is great, and it retains the same comfortable on-wrist lightness. The lume is top-tier too. If this fit me better, I’d certainly be keeping it.

Chronographs

Sadly, chronographs don’t tend to fit me, but they’ve always been Citizen’s bread and butter, so I can’t miss them out!

Zenshin Chronograph

Of course, there’s the Zenshin Chrono I briefly mentioned at the start, and there are a few things worth noting about that one. It’s got the cool textured dial, and it does have a swanky apperance.

I’d probably stick with the white or the light blue if you really like it, though. The salmon dial...well, it looks ill, that’s the best way to describe it. The stock images show this nice strong gold-like tone, but in the flesh, it’s much pastier, with a red-pink hue that doesn’t look nearly as nice. I’d also recommend shopping around for the best deal, as £499 seems like a lot considering the titanium debacle I exposed earlier.

Aside from that, there are two more chronographs that stood out to me.

Tsuno Bullhead Chronograph

The first is the Tsuno bullhead chronograph. This budget-friendly quartz piece can usually be had for less than £200 and also looks darn good from a distance. As you can see here, it’s an attractive retro-inspired piece with those distinctive pushers attached at the top rather than the side. It comes in two old money colorways and is, crucially, one of the few sub-40mm Citizen chronographs out there, at a shade under 38mm wide. Despite being incredibly chunky, like many other bullhead-style chronographs, it is still quite palatable for small arms. If I can get away with it, you probably can too.

There’s also a similar bullhead for the Japanese market, however, I think this version is comfortably the prettier of the two. Nevertheless, despite the good cost-to-looks ratio, it does fall short in other areas. Firstly, despite being a stylistic match, the bracelet is pretty shoddy for the price, only performing a touch better than that on cheap Casios. Additionally, the specs are mediocre at best, with a mineral crystal and only 5 bar water resistance. In a similar vein, I’m not sure why they didn’t make this thinner, especially given it’s only using a quartz movement. True, this blocky shape is akin to the vintage models, but I think they could have modernised it, while maintaining the theming. A trimmed-down, better-finished case wouldn’t have gone amiss!

I included it nonetheless, as I think this is the sort of watch that could be a good buy, only if you love it or can get it at a substantial discount; at which point, it makes much more sense!

Citizen Navihawk CA4660-61A

Now, I wanted to make sure I slotted in at least one of the more militaristic, text-filled chronographs, given they take up such a massive portion of the Citizen collection. My pick is the newly released CA4660 Promaster Air Navihawk, which I’ve also seen listed as the ‘Promaster Sky’ in some regions. To my eyes, this is easily in the upper echelon of Citizen’s chronograph range, with a far sexier design and nicer dial proportions than most of their repertoire. In fact, this appears to be a shrunken version of the massive 46mm Promaster Air AT, which I think is a great move.

I’m sure there are many of you, like me, who wanted to try a Citizen pilots watch because they’re so widely recommended but were utterly walled off by the sizing. I mean, this distribution of sizes was great for large arms...and that’s about it. The new Air Navihawk distills this same design language down into a more widely appreciable 40mm package that significantly reduces the clunkiness and the chances of overhang.

Now, this size reduction does impact functionality. Small text on a 46mm watch will always be more legible than small text on a 40mm watch. Still, I’d wager that 99% of the people buying these pilot watches have never seen a cockpit in their life, at which point, a bit of extra squinting doesn’t exactly matter.

The stylistic improvements are well worth the trade-off, in my opinion. I think this is a better buy than the Seiko Speedtimer. It’s got a far nicer case shape, a snazzier dial and overall a more character-rich design for far less money. Indeed, while it launched in the US at a whopping $595, this one was immediately available for hundreds less on grey market sites.

So yeah, the price, which was initially a barrier for me, given it lacks radio control or any other advanced functions, immediately became a non-issue, so long as you’re willing to accept a retailer warranty, rather than a manufacturer’s one.

200m water resistance here, a sapphire crystal, a decent bracelet, and it ships in three distinctive colors, with this silver-white being my favorite.

Garrison BM8180-03E Field Watch

Outside of the Navi ranges, there are a fair few other military-style watches worth considering. At the lower end of the price spectrum, there are two I like: one for small wrists and one for larger wrists. The first is the Garrison BM-8180-03E. I tried this one a few years ago, and at the time, it was pretty much the only Citizen watch that fit me.

Even now, the Garrison remains a pretty versatile field-pilot watch hybrid that is one of the best-reviewed watches on the entire Citizen website. Barely anyone has a bad thing to say about this piece because it’s got most bases covered. It’s fairly compact, at 37mm, which is often preferred for a field watch. It’s slim, has a safe albeit crowd-pleasing dial, and boasts useful extras, such as a solar-powered movement, strong water resistance, and a very grippy crown.

The strap here is ok. It’s not the highest quality material but does offer leather backing for comfort, as well as reinforced holes to aid longevity. This is only a mineral crystal, but for the price, it’s hard to complain.

BM8560-11X Pilot

For something bigger, there’s also an alternative version in the Garrison range, codenamed BM8560. This one leans more into the pilot watch theming and has a case size more representative of that function, at 41.9mm. In essence, this is like a beefier version of the previous one, with upgraded specs at an increased retail price. Indeed, this one sells for around $300 on Citizen’s US store, but it can be had for a bit less on grey market sites. For that, you get some upgrades, including a sapphire crystal, a better-finished dial with enhanced texture, and a slightly better strap with a snazzy angular buckle.

There’s also the matter of the case material. This is another of the ‘Super Titanium’ watches, so it should technically be another upgrade over the previous steel-cased Garrison. It will wear lighter despite being larger, which is great, but the accompanying scratch resistance claims shouldn’t be taken at face value for the reasons I mentioned earlier.

Even with this caveat, I think it’s a solid, casual all-rounder. It gives you a smart, traditional look with extreme legibility and no maintenance headaches. I’m not a fan of the day-date wheel, I must admit, but it’s certainly among the better Citizen watches I’ve encountered. The color combinations are excellent too, and should go well with a variety of outfits.

Citizen BN0116-51X Promaster Super Tough

Still, I think the Promaster Super Tough is arguably a better alternative. Now, my wife hates the look of this thing, I’m gonna be honest, but I definitely have a soft spot for the extreme utilitarian design offered up by this very unique timepiece. In fact, it’s hard to know how exactly to describe it.

It’s kind of like a pilot’s watch, it’s kind of like a field watch, but it’s also kind of like a dive watch, especially given the diver’s extension on the bracelet. What I can tell you for sure is this watch has been engineered to smash it’s way through anything and everything you can throw at it.

For starters, it’s got an unbreachable monocoque case design, with no removable rear. That’s right, this thing is so sealed that you need to crack the bezel and crystal off to get inside it, helping secure it to an advertised 300m water resistance rating. I guess it’s also fewer parts that can ‘go wrong’ if you drop it. Luckily, you won’t need to get inside to service it very often, as the eco-drive movement powering this will likely last decades without any tinkering. Additionally, this odd case format has the side effect of wearing extra flush to the wrist, which is always appreciated.

Now, the Promaster Tough line of watches has been around for what seems like forever, with most sharing these same basic characteristics and comparable super-legible dials that you could probably read from space. Nevertheless, there seem to be two basic types that Citizen is selling right now, depending on region. In some territories, like the US, the mainline watch is the regular Promaster Tough, which is very similar, just with a wider dial, a 41mm case, and a ‘mere’ 200m of water resistance.

Other places, like Europe, seem to now have this ‘Super Tough’ variant, which is a tad smaller, at 40mm, with a thicker bezel and slightly elevated aquatic performance. Do the differences matter? No, not really. As far as functionality goes, they both accomplish the same thing. What I will say is I think the Super Tough is a tad sleeker and better looking, especially in this khaki green colorway. So, if you’re torn between the two, I’d go with the latter.

The sapphire crystal on this model is good enough, or at least doesn’t impact legibility to a meaningful degree, and the titanium bracelet is good enough, with that diver’s clasp effectively acting as a micro-adjustment system.

This is easily the most recommended Citizen from my viewers over the last five years, though I would still expect some battle scars on that titanium case. But I guess for a watch of this style, that’s part of the charm, eh?

Dress Watches

Now, we come to the final section, the one I’m most proud of: dress watches. I say that because we have some absolute bangers here that are really special for the money.

Citizen Stiletto / Suratto

Another watch that certainly makes a statement is this, the Citizen Stiletto, also known as the Suratto in some regions. This watch is so good it’s basically unfair. Remember earlier when I said there was a watch thinner than the already thin Axiom? Well, this is it. There’s no editing trickery going on here; this thing is 4.9mm thick. 4.9mm! That’s less than half of most quartz wristwatches. The final result is the ideal dress watch form factor that makes a mockery of even the tightest shirt cuffs. If the Axiom was wafer-thin, this one is paper-thin!

Now, it’s not perfect. The 12 and 6 are presented in a slightly questionable font, and all the applied details are flat. To be fair, their flatness is probably on purpose here.

The Stiletto isn’t just a one-trick pony, though; the dial was quite the unexpected surprise. While it wasn’t nearly as dark as the stock images suggested, which was frustrating, the in-person appearance was actually more impressive, with a vertical bark-like pattern that changes drastically in different lighting conditions.

Surprisingly, the specs don’t particularly suffer to accommodate this radical USP. You still get 5bar water resistance, a decently-finished steel case, a sapphire crystal, and by some minor miracle, an Eco-Drive solar-powered movement squeezed under the hood. How that was fitted in, I’ll never know!

While very skinny, the rather wide dial makes this 38mm look more like a 40mm on wrist, though it’s hard to draw any comparisons, as this Citizen wears unlike anything else I’ve tried or anything in its price bracket for that matter. I’ve even tried the 5.7mm Swatch Skin series, but this Citizen is on a whole different level; it looks and feels INSANE.

Let’s be honest, this is the type of watch Seiko would have charged you three grand for. $300 is just wild value for money that not even the Chinese brands can match yet!

BM8242

On that subject, here are two great budget choices: the BM8242 and the NH8350. For half the price of the Stiletto, you can still get a pretty solid dress watch from Citizen. The BM8242 is one of the most purchased Citizen watches on sites like Amazon, primarily because it’s a quintessential classic dress watch that’s just good enough to avoid sucking in any areas, all for a low price. A decent ‘minimum viable dress watch’ if you will.

Now, I purchased this one used for ridiculously cheap, hence the nicks and the raggy strap, but you can see what I mean here. This watch has clearly seen a ton of use, but the strap is still holding together, the case is doing ok, and the eco-drive movement is still ticking away with no issues. While the markers are basic by modern standards, the overall design is still a winner despite the fact that this model has been in production for over a decade. Indeed, this is one of the few on this list that predates Citizen’s recent renaissance.

In person, the dial has an enamel-like super-glossy sheen, which looks much better than in the dated stock images, and the minimalist layout is bob on for a formal dress watch that may see more sporadic use. At around 36mm (35.8mm) and only 8mm thick, its size also matches its vintage theming. This watch is available in several variants, with differing dial textures and marker sets across the range, including some with different case color. In fact, the latter is probably the weakest part of this watch. The case isn’t ugly per se, but it’s certainly simplistic, with a basic structure and entry-level polishing that won’t wow up close. Overall, it does its job quite well.

NH8350-83L

That said, if something larger and more contemporary is what you’re after, my second budget pick, the NH8350 may be more up your alley. This is available for around £100 on a variety of grey market sites and basically gives you a super minimalist look with a colorful dial in a 39.7mm steel-clad package. Pre-pandemic, that combination wasn’t super impressive, but since then, it’s become increasingly hard to find on a budget.

What you see really is what you get with this one. It’s arguably more fashion-forward than the previous one, albeit with a design that won’t be winning any originality awards. It’s essentially Citizen’s answer to the tsunami of trash-tier fashion or designer watches you’ll usually see at this price, with skinny hands, even skinnier markers, and that sporty, vibrant sunburst dial. Thankfully, this one is better than most of its direct competition, with a good weight, an automatic Miyota 8200 movement, a good brand name, and 5 bar water resistance that does make it feel like a more complete package. Most comparably priced options on Amazon, for instance, are only snapback quartz watches that are splashproof at best.

Its weaknesses are, funnily enough, identical to the previous watch. While substantial in terms of feel, the case has some pretty boring polishing, and the hour markers again look very cheap under macro examination. It’s also worth noting that some Chinese AliExpress brands already make viable alternatives to designs like this, often with improved specifications for similar money.

Unlike the previous watch, the NH8350 ships by default on a mediocre steel bracelet. While it has some mini links and feels weighty, the clasp foregoes any adjustment holes, which sucks.

view the nh8350 on creation watches

Eco-Drive 365

Something that doesn’t suck is the next watch on this list. I took a complete punt on this model after spotting it deep in the Citizen website and immediately thought, “why have I never heard of this?”. It’s buried about twelve pages in, with a super short description, zero customer reviews, and a non-existent marketing campaign; this was supposedly released in late 2023, but I don’t remember hearing anything about it. And I have no idea why!

The watch in question is this: the Eco-Drive 365. Now, we’ll get to the name in a moment, but straight away, from a visual standpoint, this thing is both super quirky and super impressive at the same time.

Obviously, you have this unusual angular, 70s-inspired steel case featuring hooded lugs and a bracelet with matching custom-designed faceted end links. The recessed crown tucks away perfectly on the right side, giving a very symmetrical look, and this version has a smooth black bezel framing the sapphire crystal and dial beneath. For a solar quartz watch, it feels remarkably sturdy, with an inset screwed case-back and an assuring weighty feel, which is elevated further by the perfectly suited radial brushing and two polished lips atop the lugs.

So many times in recent years, I’ve found myself concluding that the original version of a watch looks better than the reissue. This is an exception. Indeed, the 365 is technically a reissue of a 1973 quartz watch, though I’d say it’s a huge step up.

The dial here is the real star of the show, with a variety of glittering accents that give you a starry night sky effect, whilst retaining the Eco-Drive solar-charging functionality; another edge this model has over the original. It looks glorious, even up close, and is aided in its efforts by the gunmetal chapter ring, which houses an array of intricate three-dimensional overhanging hour markers that instantly grab your attention. I suspect that outer ring is actually where it takes in light.

Of course, that brings us to the namesake feature, the E365 movement. Introduced specifically in tandem with this watch, this is a pretty bonkers inclusion for a watch that’s currently selling for under £400 at the time of recording. Now, solar movements as a whole are already impressive to me. Having your watch last months from a short stretch in the Sun feels like magic. But the E365 caliber takes this to a whole new extreme. As the name suggests, from a single solar charge, this watch lasts an entire year. 365 days, with no further sunlight required.

Undoubtedly, this is really cool tech, though, I don’t think it’s quite as impactful as it sounds. If you wear a solar watch semi-often, you’ll likely not run into any power reserve issues anyway, as the watch will naturally get recharged. But, for a dressier piece that may sit in a drawer for a couple of months at a time? That could be the difference between the watch being short on power or ready to throw straight on.

As part of the modernization process, the 365 was given a size bump to 42.8mm, which is a larger uptick than many retro reissue watches. That said, the extremely short lug-to-lug length does offset this somewhat, with a squat fit akin to a typical 41mm watch. Here it is on my 6.25-inch wrist; it’s clearly too big for me, but isn’t nearly as big as most 43mm watches, which usually drown me.

That 22mm bracelet is good, too. It’s got solid links throughout, a milled clasp, and a reasonable adjustment range, thanks to the two mini links being so small. No real need to change it, especially with how well it suits the look.

This new iteration initially launched in three colors, including a ruby-laden limited edition, which was much pricier and has now sold out. Thankfully, the two remaining colors are half the cost and arguably more tastefully done.

Of the few YouTube reviews I found for this watch, I saw some complaints about daytime legibility. That may apply to the black version, with its darker markers and hands, but I personally had no trouble with this silver one in real-world usage. Their issues are likely more a result of sub-par video lighting setups than anything else.

Still, the absence of lume is a bummer. Is it a deal breaker? Well, I don’t think so.

Just like the Stiletto, the Eco-Drive 365 both looks and feels like a luxury watch without being priced like one. It can’t not make a list like this!