20 Best Watches Under £100 That Aren’t Just Copies
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I’ve spent an ungodly amount of time and money over the last 6 years reviewing just about every watch brand on the market. And, well, you don’t even have to read those posts! Because today, I’m bringing you the long and the short of it. The twenty best watches I’ve tried over the last few years that you can usually grab for under £100 or about $125 US Dollars; of course, prices may vary a bit depending on time and import fees or tariffs to your country.
Either way, you’ll be pleasantly surprised with what you can get if you know where to look. As you’ll soon discover, these watches are either great looking, surprisingly robust, or have unique features that truly make them stand out from the crowd; all at a price point where most high street watches or fashion brand watches look and feel like bottom-of-the-barrel trash.
Now, I already covered a string of options in my best watches under fifty list. So, if you think there’s one I’ve missed here, you’ll probably find it over there instead.
Casio F-91WB
A prime example is the legendary Casio F-91W, which is well-known for being the hardiest dirt-cheap watch money can buy. Lucky for you, Casio recently revamped this watch, in the form of the F-91WB, meaning it gets a second outing here.
The F-91WB is basically an F-91 with a fashion-forward facelift. It’s functionally near-identical with only minor differences to the crystal and caseback, but boasts a more stylish, minimalist layout that foregoes the retro coloring of the original model. Considering the structural similarities, it’s surprising how much of a difference the simple cosmetic alterations have made, with the WB giving off a much more contemporary vibe than its 30-year-old predecessor. I, for one, definitely appreciate this change. While I don’t hate the original F-91 by any stretch, I just find myself reaching for this new one so much more, to the extent that I actually went out and bought a second one in white just for summer use.
Yeah, this one also comes in a bunch of other fruity colors, so if you’re after an affordable, yet clean digital watch, this is the obvious place to start. As far as specifications go, the F-91WB is pretty unremarkable, with a resin case and a plastic crystal. But, it’s got a small profile that stays out of the way, a stonking reliability record carried over from the previous F-91 versions, as well as a good level of comfort and adaptability, thanks to the band having a monstrous number of adjustment holes. I mean seriously, who is wearing this band on the smallest hole? I think my cat’s arm would struggle to fit in that.
Predictably, the big strength here is price-to-performance. You can grab a reliable timekeeping device with a super legible display, typically for well under forty quid, let alone a hundred. The only real downside with this watch is the joke of a backlight, which has also been ported over from the standard F-91. Even so, it’s still a guilty pleasure that’s worth checking out.
Casio MDV-106
There’s another obvious contender also hailing from Casio, in the form of the MDV-106 dive watch. Now I also featured this one in the watches under fifty list, but two things have changed since last time. Firstly, this watch is much closer to one hundred bucks in most territories these days, and secondly, the MDV-106 has since been relaunched in numerous colors and even in a comparable MDV-107 version, which is the same watch, just with the fish logo removed from the dial and caseback.
This watch is a mainstay of all budget lists, with its level of build quality and water resistance remaining unsurpassed even at its post-pandemic price tag.
Now, I won’t skirt around the fact that this watch is big. It’s not huge, but it is quite commanding, at 44mm, so if you’ve got a small arm, you may want to skip to the next one. What it does offer is an exceptionally sturdy feel and many of the hallmark diving features found on more expensive watches, including a fully ratcheting bezel, a screwed caseback, a 200m water resistance rating, and a properly threaded crown to secure it from the elements. It’s no wonder this one accrued the nickname ‘Duro’.
The lume is poor, and the design is pretty ‘safe’, but as a whole, the MDV-106 does a great job of combining functionality with a sprinkle of elegance, thanks to the 3D hour markers and swanky sunburst dial that help the watch look much more expensive.
Casio EFR-S108D
One you shouldn’t avoid is the Casio Edifice EFR-S108D (full color range). This watch is frankly unbelievable for the money in more ways than one, arguably the best all-purpose Casio at the moment.
The main attraction here is the stainless steel case. It’s really nicely finished, with top-tier brushing and hairline polishing that’s rarely seen at this price, and it also boasts the popular integrated-bracelet sports watch design, which has risen to prominence over the past half-decade. What’s most impressive, though, is the incredible slimness. The EFR-S108 is thinner than even the most expensive sports watches, at a ridiculous 8mm, meaning it wears almost perfectly flat to the arm, even on the slimmest of wrists.
At around 38mm wide, or just shy of 40mm with the side bulges, this watch is a tremendously versatile shape overall, so fit is more of an afterthought than a concern. The bracelet that ships with this watch is adequate. It’s not as well-constructed as that which ships on some value-packed Chinese brand watches, but it’s serviceable with enough microadjustable holes to give you a comfortable fit, no matter your wrist size.
What’s more, this Edifice watch even houses a sapphire crystal above the dial, with a level of scratch—resistance above virtually everything else below a hundred quid, including most other Casio offerings. Admittedly, this crystal isn’t the clearest, as it lacks a decent anti-reflective coating, which can reduce the vibrance of the dial beneath, but that issue can be sidestepped by opting for some of the brighter colors that are able to better punch through the haze. That task has been made much easier in recent months, as Casio has released several different dial variants of this watch, including sporty metallic dials and texture-rich shiny dials that arguably look even higher-end.
MTP-B145
On that note, there are two final Casio models worth mentioning that look ‘higher-end’ for a bit of a different reason. These are the MTP-B145D and MTP-1302; two watches with designs more than a little reminiscent of the Tissot PRX and Rolex Datejust, respectively. While this pair have more drawbacks than the last few, I can’t not include them in a post like this, given they do offer up some surface-level luxuriousness, especially from a distance.
The MTP-B145 is even thinner than the last watch, at 7.5mm, so, combined with the hooded lug design, which makes it look like an integrated bracelet sports watch, it’s clear why this one quickly rose to prominence. It ships in a wide variety of colors, features a steel case, and is pretty attractive, despite the fairly vanilla appearance. Now there are one or two things worth noting about this model.
Firstly, it’s pretty small indeed. At 35mm, it’s a unisex model that’s definitely best suited to smaller wrists, or those solely after a compact, sleek watch. At present, there are no larger versions available. Frustratingly, the bracelet is also hindered by a clasp that completely skips microadjustment holes, meaning you can only tweak the length in link-sized increments. The links are pretty small, but it’s still far from ideal.
Outside of the sizing quirks, the Casio B145 is reasonably good and certainly has a versatile look to it, providing fashion-watch-rivaling capabilities for under half the cost of many similar-looking competitors. It’s also a fraction of the price of the quartz Tissot PRX, and it does provide a very similar aesthetic. Unlike true integrated bracelet options, you can also switch out the bracelet on the MTP-B145 for any other standard 18mm strap if you fancy it, allowing you to mix up the look.
MTP-1302PE
Surprisingly, even this isn’t the most popular Casio at the moment. That honor goes to the MTP-1302. Now, the base 1302PD that you’re seeing here really isn’t anything to write home about. Sure, it looks somewhat like a Rolex Datejust from a distance, with a similar layout and fluted bezel, but it also has two notable flaws that typically would have ruled it out of this article.
Firstly, the case is made out of chromed brass. Chromed brass looks cheaper than steel, often with an overly shiny finish and a slight blue hue that doesn’t correctly match the steel bracelets usually fitted to these models. It also scratches more easily and has worse corrosion resistance than stainless steel, hence why it’s generally considered an objectively inferior material for watches.
Secondly, the dials on these watches tend to look cheap up close. Specifically, I think it’s the markers that have always held this watch back. They’re quite flat and appear punched through from the rear, leaving a very rudimentary, plasticky appearance.
So, why am I even talking about this watch?
Well, Casio just released a new iteration: the MTP-1302PE. And this ‘PE’ version cures at least one of those two main ailments. Now, the case, sadly, that’s still chromed brass. But the dial? Wow, what a difference that switch from ‘D’ to ‘E’ has made! For whatever reason, Casio kitted this new one out with a much snazzier reverse 3D waffle texture, and a proper set of applied markers that trounce those on the original version.
Combined with the much stronger and cleaner sunburst, the PE is by far the prettiest version of this watch to date, and effectively renders the original 1302 obsolete, provided you can obtain it for a similar price tag.
Yeah, currently these are selling for ten to twenty quid more than the standard one, so it remains to be seen if prices settle to the same level. It may be brass, but it’s also one of the coolest and flashiest budget watches from arm’s length, so I had to include it in a list like this!
Addiesdive AD2030
Now, despite Casio’s legendary reputation, they’re arguably not the best value budget watch brand any more. For that, we have to head over to China and specifically, the retail site AliExpress. This is like the Chinese version of Amazon, where you can buy high-quality, yet dirt-cheap Chinese brand watches directly from the factories that make them. These are often the same manufacturers that already produce watches for more expensive, bigger-name brands, only now they’re shipped right to your door instead.
Among these brands, Addiesdive is perhaps the most well-known on the extreme budget end. Their AD2030 pretty much redefined what could be done for under fifty quid, with a case, bracelet, and detailing that put most alternatives to shame. The remarkable desert dune dial was the icing on the cake, with a texture and three-dimensional profile that many would have considered impossible at this price point. It’s a great watch that you can now also get in a logo-free version, which avoids the rather unsightly Addiesdive logo, which was the primary stain on this otherwise outstanding dirt-cheap watch.
At 36.8mm, it’s certainly on the smaller side and not ideal for larger arms, but you can grab a bigger automatic version if you need something bulkier.
If anything, I actually prefer their sleeker chronograph watches, which I just find a better match for my wardrobe. Their AD2095 and AD2037 boast construction and materials just as good as the last one, but forego the experimental desert dial in favor of more classic mid-century ones. These are akin to certain Hamilton and Patek models respectively, though they aren’t exact clones, and for, again, around £50 a pop, you’ll struggle to find better chronographs for the money. Not only are these sleek, with thin, steel cases and elegant domed crystals, but they’re also packing meca-quartz hybrid movements that outperform the standard quartz chronographs that are usually standard under the £150 mark.
The stock straps for each are more than adequate, and both watches remain clean and remarkably detailed, even under macro examination, which can’t be said for most low-cost mainstream brands.
With discount codes, you could grab these for even less. At which point, I can’t think of any chronographs that beat these in terms of bang for the buck.
Merkur
Addiesdive is perhaps the best-known Chinese brand these days, but there are definitely a few others worth mentioning before we return to more familiar soil. My personal favorite is Merkur. They tend to create some more original or at least more Chinese-inspired designs, rather than the Western luxury watch clones that still dominate the likes of AliExpress and Amazon. The result is a range of low-cost timepieces with a bunch more uniqueness and character than virtually everything else they’re competing with.
Now, not all of these designs stick. I’ve covered a few that are pretty bizarre, both as far as design and naming goes. However, some really do stand out, such as this stunning ‘Sector Dial’ watch. My wife found this a year ago for a smidgeon under £100, and wow, did she deliver. This lime green iteration in particular is undeniably gorgeous, with a design that could easily pass for something many times more expensive; almost like a mixture between the Baltic HMS and the Longines Heritage Sector, but with some unique twists and for a fraction of the price.
It’s not just the dial that impresses with this one. The stainless steel case is shockingly well-constructed, with decent polishing and a striking stepped design that even encompasses an in-house manufactured Chinese Standard Movement on the inside. Not the fanciest movement out there, nor the most accurate, but one of the coolest at the extreme budget end of the market for sure.
Even the stock suede band was more than wearable, making this a true all-around monster for the money. At 38.5mm, it’s also sized perfectly, and you can grab it in a small selection of colors, though this mint one is the freshest. My teeth feel that bit cleaner when wearing it.
Another Merkur worth mentioning has to be their salmon dial sunburst watch, which they told me was nicknamed the ‘lightning’. It’s one of the quirks with Merkur; they don’t really use codenames. If you do manage to track down this watch, its moniker isn’t actually that hyperbolic, as the dial is arguably the most technically impressive on any sub-£100 watch, with an extreme three-dimensional ridged surface that certainly makes a statement.
I wouldn’t call it a looker, at least not in my book, but this lightning watch lands a place on this list almost by default, with a level of detail and build that would have been completely unheard of at this price 5 or 10 years ago.
Again, it’s got a fairly compact and really slim steel case, with a cartoonishly raised crystal and a similar in-house mechanical movement at a battery-powered price. If you change the strap for something more…suitable, then you could be on to a winner with this majestic Merkur.
Citizen BM8242
Japanese brand Citizen doesn’t typically play in this ballpark; most of their stuff is £200+. But, if you scour the grey market, you may be able to track down the venerable BM8242, a solar-powered dress watch that I’ve regularly seen fluctuating between the £90 and £130 mark.
Now, this one isn’t any sort of engineering marvel. Instead, it’s very much a play-it-safe dress watch, with a classic design, simple polishing, and a look that works with just about any formal attire.
The weakest parts of this watch are the simplistic case finishing and rudimentary hour markers, but these are patched over by the smooth enamel-like white dial and the pure practicality of having it be solar powered.
If this is only a watch you’ll wear sporadically, as is often the case with dress watches, the BM8242 is a reliable big-brand option that won’t require frequent winding or battery changes every time it hits the wrist, as the Eco-Drive movement will stay charged for many months after initial sun exposure.
Casio DW-5600
If you’re lucky, you may be able to track down a solar Casio G-Shock watch at this price to take up the mantle of your bulletproof beater watch, too. But, their standard quartz digitals are much more readily encountered under a hundred. Of these, the DW-5600 is arguably the best all-around choice for most of you reading this post. Not only is it one of the ‘least ugly’ G-Shocks, which has to be said considering how convoluted these designs can get, but it’s also one of the most wearable, with a 43.5mm diameter that prevents it from looking like a UFO on your wrist. Unless you want that look, of course!
The DW-5600 gives you a near-identical design to the original 1980s G-Shock square models, so it retains some of that retro feel, while still providing the industry-leading shock-resistant and water-resistant construction that this Casio sub-brand is known for. This model doesn’t host some of the advanced features found in its more premium brethren, but that also means it’s easy to use, and you’re not forced to remember any obscure button combinations to navigate your way through the menus. It’s all very self-explanatory.
Braun AW10
What isn’t very self-explanatory is why I have included the Braun AW10 in a post like this. I mean, in some ways, this watch isn’t close to ‘best in class’. The specs are underwhelming, the case feels quite feeble, and price-wise, it’s maxing out our budget; you’ll have to wait for grey market sales to nab this for around the £100 mark if you’re lucky.
It really shouldn’t be on this list…but it is. And that’s because I just find myself reaching for it far too often. For whatever reason, this watch just ends up on my wrist far more than I expected, and I think there’s absolutely something to be said for that. What good is a mega-specced or highly decorated watch if it never sees the light of day? In my eyes, wrist-time is king and arguably the most unspoken part of watch collecting. And that’s the reason it’s here.
I’ve been lucky enough to holiday in some of the Germanic countries of Europe, and the mathematically precise design language of the AW10 makes me feel somewhat connected to those places, as if I am a wannabe German architect or designer myself. And maybe that was intentional.
You see, this watch was actually conceived by two of the greatest German designers Dietrich Lubs and Dieter Rams, all the way back in 1989. These boys clearly knew what they were doing because people are still buying this watch almost forty years later, despite many more performant watches having been created since then. This also makes it one of the longest-running affordable watches you can still buy today, alongside the likes of the Casio F-91W.
Unlike the Casio, and most other Braun watches, the AW10 is still made in Gemany today, which is worth noting if you’d rather avoid Chinese-made products where possible.
The AW10 isn’t the prettiest or most elegant by any stretch; I don’t think you could pull this off as a dress watch, for example, given the dingy color scheme. Instead, it’s just a clean, utilitarian piece for office or casual use, where you just want to read the time and be done with it. What’s more, it’s also one of the thinnest affordable watches you can buy, at just 7mm including the bezel, and it looks even thinner, thanks to the wafer-like main body, which is just 2.4mm. So, regardless of what you wear, this watch can slip under any long-sleeved cuff at a moment’s notice.
Despite the scrawny 33mm size, that super flat lug profile also means this watch scales up fairly respectably to average-sized arms, and the strap is also serviceable, with a nice buckle and enough pliability to last a reasonable amount of time, even if the holes do get raggy.
You can also try out the somewhat space-age AW50, if you’re even more of a Bauhaus purist, but I’ve personally found the AW10 to be the more wearable of the two.
And before you comment, yes, it’s marketed as Braun here in the UK, despite Braun (‘brown’) being the correct pronunciation.
Parnis
Another brand you have to pronounce cautiously is Parnis. Now, Parnis is another of those Chinese brands, only these guys take things to an even greater extreme when it comes to value. In recent years, they’ve even reigned back their packaging to nothing but a plastic sleeve and polystyrene shell, in an effort to redistribute resources back into the watches themselves.
Now, most of what Parnis makes are highly-specced rebranded clones of existing or vintage luxury watches, so the ideological opposite of Braun, I guess.
But they also have a slightly more original minimalist watch worth considering, in the form of their PA2123. This is a much larger 41mm automatic that you can often grab for Casio-rivalling prices. Like most Parnis watches, it ships with a steel case, has a domed mineral crystal, and even ships with arguably the best stock strap I’ve seen on any watch under £100. No joke, they could probably charge fifty quid a pop for these if they sold them separately.
The movements powering most Parnis watches are Seagull automatics, like the Seagull 1731, which offer a surprising level of decoration for the money, reasonable performance, and are fairly well-known by watchmakers for maintenance.
Overall, these are a pretty impressive choice, though they do wear slightly larger than the 41mm size indicates, as they aren’t the slimmest.
Cadisen C8200
If you want to save a buck and don’t mind extra bulk, look no further than the Cadisen C8200.
This watch is often available for under £70 on AliExpress, and for that meagre sum, it offers an astoundingly weighty feel and top-tier specifications, including a Seiko NH35A automatic movement, a sapphire crystal, a solid steel bracelet, and an advertised 10bar water resistance rating.
Even the dial is remarkably detailed, with a 3D teak deck pattern, rivalling watches at multiple times its retail price. The C8200 is comfortably the most impressive watch Cadisen makes and the only one I like right now, even if it doesn’t fit me. It’s only 40.5mm, but is on the thicker side, so it tends to suit larger wrists the best, especially considering the included bracelet has inflexible end links and no microadjustment holes.
Supposedly, Cadisen hired some unnamed German designer to work on this piece, and whether that’s true or not, the final result is really impressive. For the most part, it’s a step or two above most other Chinese watches, let alone most of the trash you’ll find at most mainstream jewelers at this price.
But it’s worth noting that good construction and good quality control aren’t always one and the same. When paying this little, you should anticipate some quirks or flaws. My unit, for example, arrived with a dial slightly kinked clockwise, which is a shame. But eh, that’s the roulette of dirt-cheap AliExpress watches, isn’t it! You never know what you’re gonna get.
Vostok Amphibia
The same could be said for the legendary Vostok Amphibia. This Russian-made diving juggernaut comes in so many different dial and case variants that the Amphibia name is more of an umbrella term, covering a bunch of watches with huge water resistance and similar movements.
Now, a few years back, these were readily available within the budget of this post. But, these days, availability and pricing are much more inconsistent and vary heavily depending on region, partly thanks to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the consequent sanctions placed against them.
If you can get an Amphibia for a good price, they are awesome mechanical watches with a bunch of personality and durability that has been proven time and time again.
My favorite models are those with the 41mm 120 case shape whose silhouette is arguably the most proportional in the lineup, with a unique, yet attractive bezel that really ties the whole package together. These watches are powered by in-house mechanical movements, secured behind leviathan casebacks that have been consistently shown to reach depths that the budget Chinese brands could only dream of.
The domed acrylic crystal will accrue scratches, but nothing that a tube of polywatch couldn’t fix in an instant.
Overall, there really is nothing else out there like the Vostok Amphibia, but if you get one, I’d stick to their silicone bands, as the default bracelets are about as comfy as an angry ex with a pair of pliers.
Armitron Rubik & Rogue
I had some similar teething troubles with the bracelet on one of my Armitron watches too, but after a quick switch, I was left with one of the only viable Casio digital alternatives on the market today.
Their Rubik and Rogue offer steel cases for far less money than equivalent steel-cased Casio models.
Now, they aren’t perfect. The backlight on these models sucks just as badly as many Casios.
However, they hold up much better than the similarly priced resin Casios when it comes to scratches. The most common complaint with the Casio digitals, their diminutive size, is also less of a concern here, as both Armitrons are a fair amount larger, at 34mm across, excluding the pushers, and also have longer lug to lug lengths.
For the most part, the bracelets here are also notably better than the hair-rippers that ship with most Casios, and the functions and display are more than serviceable for daily use.
Armitron is also a fairly well-known and storied brand from the US as well, so it’s not like you’re just getting a dodgy no-name Casio rip-off here. They were one of the first players in the digital space, and they’ve also got some other cool LED watches that I’m keen to test out, though availability outside of the US is hit-and-miss. Definitely worth having on your radar, nonetheless.
Swatch Skin (Steel models)
A brand typically never on my radar is Swatch. Their Swiss-made plastic watches have always seemed a bit pricey to me, even if their designs can be pretty inventive from time to time. That said, some of their steel-cased watches are quite intriguing, especially their ultra-thin ‘Skin’ series. Now, this model is one I tested out several years ago, so I doubt it’s still available, but you get the general gist here. You can grab a truly wafer-thin watch in a bunch of different dials, with the feel and look that only stainless steel can provide.
The specs and detailing are nothing special, but the bands tend to be quite good, typically with custom patterns and colors that neatly complement the dials, and despite the skinniness, most versions still feature the fan-favorite battery hatch on the rear, so changing the cell is an absolute breeze.
Considering the minor price difference, it seems a no-brainer to opt for the steel models unless you’re specifically after the transparent jellyfish-style look that you can sometimes get with the plastic ones.
Boderry Voyager Quartz & Automatic
But what if you want to try some more exotic materials? Well, look no further than Chinese brand Boderry; which focuses almost exclusively on creating low-cost titanium watches for the masses.
And their watches are surprisingly well-made for the money. Obviously, titanium’s lightweight nature means you’ll never get the substantial in-hand feel of a stainless steel watch, but these Boderry cases do showcase their quality with a nicely blasted matte finish, and accompanying specs that are so outrageously good, it makes you wonder how this is even possible for this price. They offer high-quality bands and titanium bracelets, strong water resistance, and even sapphire crystals for the majority of their models.
What’s more, I’ve tried several Boderry watches to date, and I’ve surprisingly not experienced any obvious quality control errors, which can’t be said for many other sub-$100 offerings. Their level of dial detailing has also consistently impressed me, even if some of their designs didn’t take my fancy.
The best one I’ve tried is their Voyager 38mm quartz field watch, which strays slightly from the stereotypical militaristic design, housing an off-centre subdial and a triple display window that you won’t find on many other watches. You also get a proper screw-down crown and caseback, so it holds up really well aquatically, especially considering this piece is often around £80 brand new. This one is powered by a Swiss quartz movement, which you can oddly view through the case rear; not sure why you’d want to, but hey, the movement is decent, not to mention quiet, and you aren’t really making any major sacrifices in other areas. The only asterisk is that low-light performance does vary depending on which color you opt for, so those with darker markers are worse, but it’s still one of the cheapest titanium-cased watches in the world, so it’s a no-brainer inclusion on a list like this.
For not much more, you can even grab the more familiar-looking automatic titanium variant, which is a touch larger at 40mm and is powered by the popular Seiko NH35 instead.
If you use the discount code ‘BENSWATCHCLUB’, you can get an extra ten bucks off either model on their site, and that’s an absolute bargain considering what you get for your money here. If you can forgive the unusual brand name, Boderry is worth a punt.
Thorn SHY-043
There are a couple of other military-inspired watches that also deserve a quick mention.
The first is great if you want a more substantial, traditional field watch that looks straight out of a mid-century conflict. It’s the Thorn SHY-043, a steel-cased 36mm watch with a dial that shocked me with how clean it looked under my super macro lens. I mean, look at this, this is a sub-$100 watch, ladies and gentlemen! This level of execution is nothing short of top-tier, and because it uses a period-appropriate bubble-style acrylic crystal, you get a completely unhindered view of it, with minimal reflections.
This A-17 style field watch also features zero branding, so it isn’t ruined by the wacky images or font styles often used by some of these AliExpress brands.
My only real gripe with this watch is that it’s noticeably thicker than some of the vintage watches it’s based on. Back in the day, these watches would have been powered by hand-wound movements, which are thinner than the modern automatic Seiko movement used here. As such, this Thorn wears slightly larger than the 36mm diameter indicates.
Still, from a value perspective, this runs rings around the similarly priced Timex Expedition watches, which have comparable styling but are usually rocking inferior brass cases and lower-cost quartz movements that don’t look and feel nearly as premium. All for the same sort of price.
Like many other watches on this list, the Thorn SHY-043 immediately strikes you as a high-quality piece straight out of the gate, even if it lacks some individualism. Definitely one of the best field watches under £100, and it comes in three colors to boot.
Seagull 1963
Perhaps the most impressive watch for the money at this price is the Seagull 1963 chronograph. No, this watch wasn’t made by one of those winged felons who always steal your ice cream; Seagull is actually one of those secretly huge Chinese companies that produce a whole heap of watches and movements, and they’ve actually been around since 1955.
While their watches see wider uptake in their home nation, in the West, they’re predominantly known for their 1963 pilot chronograph, which is generally considered the best value chronograph watch, and that’s because it’s powered by what is essentially the cheapest decent mechanical chronograph movement, the ST1901.
Developed in-house by Seagull and based on a mid-Century Swiss calibre, this movement is visually striking for the money, with an easy view of the complex, colored gears and decorated support plates visible through the exhibition caseback. Compared to most similarly priced quartz chronographs, mechanical movements like this also provide the chronograph hand with a typically smoother sweep, and you also get a much quicker ‘snap’ back to the twelve position when using the pushers.
This movement also gives those pushers a much more tactile and satisfying ‘clunk’ when you use them, and you can actually see the mechanism by which they work if you flip the watch over.
Of course, the best part is that this cool movement is available for so cheap. That’s because you can buy these watches directly from China, where both the watch and movement are produced.
On that note, most 1963s on AliExpress are basically subcontractor-manufactured versions, using movements and certain parts sourced from Seagull directly. They’re not technically fakes, more ‘unofficial’, at least to my understanding, and they are far more affordable than if you were to buy the original Tianjin Factory version, despite sharing the same movement and materials. So, for under a hundred, the cheaper ones are the obvious choice. Now, the sub £50 are almost certainly terrible quality fakes, but you can get some reasonable options for around the £100, sometimes closer to £80.
The design of this one is very faithful to the original 1960s Chinese Air Force watch it was based on, with a cream dial and a domed crystal. You can grab this in a few sizes, with the most faithful options being just over 37mm wide, making them also really viable for smaller arms like mine.
You can also grab these in with either an acrylic or sapphire crystal, depending on your preference. The only real catch with this one is that the movement is audible in quiet environments.