Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 39mm Review | The Best Dial Under $500
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What I have here is no ordinary Seiko Presage Cocktail Time. Courtesy of Watchshop, the UK's largest watch dealer, I've managed to get hold of the freshly-released version, which comes in at 39.5mm, 1mm smaller than the original range. It's nicknamed 'The Aviation' after the cocktail of the same name. Interestingly, there's also a selection of even smaller 38.5mm models released not long ago, though those have a somewhat different look.
Price
This semi-premium Seiko product line typically hovers between $300 and $600, depending on your chosen model. Obviously, inflation could also affect the purchase price moving forward. For such a cost, this Presage isn't particularly impressive on paper.
While the watch is made of the industry standard 316L stainless steel, used in most pieces from about $60 and upwards, it's also only sporting a mineral crystal, which you'd also expect to find on much lower-end watches.
Movement
Powering the Presage is only the entry-level Seiko 4R35 movement. This is essentially a branded version of the popular NH35 intended for usage only in mainline Seiko watches, and while it performs admirably, it's hardly a cracking deal. You can find the near-identical NH35 in the likes of the sub ~$100 Invicta Pro Diver. In fact, when specs alone are considered, the Invicta begins to look like a real bargain.
Watch Case & Bracelet
In some further aspects, the case for this Seiko doesn't improve. The basic case polishing here is only equivalent to lower-cost watches like the Orient Bambino, and it doesn't even integrate with the predominantly brushed bracelet particularly well.
The bracelet itself is thankfully better quality than those fitted to lower-tier Seiko 5s. Still, even this has a rudimentary butterfly clasp with no micro-adjustment holes, meaning you can only alter the watch in large link-sized increments. Even the water resistance is mediocre, at only 5bar.
Design
So, who on Earth would buy this watch then? I mean, this deal sounds as palatable as porcupine soup!
Well, it's time for Seiko to release the Kraken. Indeed they have a secret weapon that allows them to leapfrog the majority of comparably specced or similarly priced competition.
Now their real forte, especially in recent years, has been dials. More specifically, their mastery of dial texture. I first encountered this with the surprisingly elaborate Seiko 5 SNK361 a year or two back, which had an array of microscopic crests across the surface. This was pretty impressive for such an affordable timepiece, and I'm sure you've already seen the wonderfully crafted Grand Seikos at the opposite end of the price spectrum. Some of those are genuinely astounding. What I'm getting at is that Seiko is a class leader in this element at most price points, and this is evident once more with the Presage lineup.
The best-known Cocktail Time models continue to receive acclaim for their exuberant dials, which have a distinctive kaleidoscope-like quality thanks to the beams of color protruding from the center. This alone makes the Cocktail Time look more sophisticated than many rivals in substantially higher price brackets, which is why I think it's seen such substantial adoption from collectors.
The follow-ups each look a bit different. The 38.5mm model I mentioned earlier has more of a floral pattern which, online at least, doesn't look nearly as inspiring. Perhaps it looks better in person, though I can't say for sure. What I can say is that the 39.5mm model I have in front of me is a real looker.
The brown 'Irish Coffee' version is actually what inspired this post, as when my wife and I saw it online, we immediately wanted to take a look at it. I reached out to WatchShop, but unfortunately, they didn't have the stock to give me access to that one. I was able to get hold of this blue version, though, and honestly, it's not a bad backup.
At a distance, you'll notice this dial is more understated than some of the previous alternatives, with no bold patterns in play. That being said, it keeps improving the closer you get. At a macro level sits an abundance of interlocking ribs, which combine to create a subtler version of the sunburst lines found on the 40.5mm model. When you rotate the watch on-wrist, especially in sunlight, the result is nothing short of spectacular. I mean just look at that glistening; wow! It's bolstered by the beautiful gradation from a punchy inner color to a darker hue at the circumference, adding an extra dimension akin to a carefully crafted watercolor painting.
dial features
The high-shine markers are nothing out of the ordinary and look decent enough not to hold the aesthetic back, though they don't offer any luminescence whatsoever.
Like the Orient Star classic, the hands of this Seiko do add to the allure, boasting a half-polished, half-frosted finish that looks premium and surprisingly aids visibility. Unlike those with a singular finishing type, which tend to blend into the background in certain lighting conditions, half of these dual finished pointers will almost always offer clear reading, which I find especially advantageous for a slimmed-down handset like this. I'd love to see this method become the standard for mid-tier watches, as it has no downsides outside of cost.
There's a dark date window at three, which blends in quite well, though perhaps a no-date would have been a wiser choice for a dressier watch that won't see everyday usage. The extra symmetry could have only added to the beauty. Similar logic may apply to the dial text, as I see no reason to have both 'Presage' and 'Automatic' together. I think anyone purchasing this watch will already know it's an automatic Presage; there's no need to remind them every time they look down! One line would have sufficiently offset the logo at the top center.
Still, I reckon this is comfortably the best dial available for under $500 on the market right now, though I'm more than open to your suggestions in the comments at the end of this post. Anything that compares to this must be damn impressive in its own right.
Dimensions
With the cleaner peripherals and slashed sizing, this newer option suits a wider variety of wrists and scenarios than its predecessors, especially in this vivid sporty blue color which looks great in the summer time. Smaller wristed folk can get away with this thanks to the short lug to lug, while the larger wristed of you can probably squeeze into this without it looking as cartoonish as a 38mm or lower option might. It's also fairly slim, which is a must for a sleek dress watch, right?
Diameter: 39.5mm
Lug to lug: 45.9mm
Thickness: 12mm (including crystal)
Final Thoughts
You see, this finesse is why Seiko can charge more than the better-specced San Martins, Pagani Designs, and others out there.
Those options might have better higher water resistance, a better crystal, a better band, and improved finishing, but they don't look like this! They don't feel like a piece of art on your wrist, and especially for dress watches like the Presage, that's all that truly matters, right?
Heck, I really like the new 38mm Orient Bambino that I reviewed the other week, and despite both being great to look at and seeming similar on paper, this downsized Presage does a sterling job of commanding that increased RRP. It's undoubtedly unlucky timing for Orient; I wonder if this will steal their thunder to some extent? Perhaps the price difference is enough to prevent that.
